9 BMW 135i lots for sale across 9+ Copart locations – model years 2008–2013, avg. mileage 134,000 mi. 33% clean title, 67% salvage; Front End is the top damage (56%). Bids start at $1,200, and recent BMWs sold for a median winning bid around $2,500 before fees across the make.
The 135i was the compact, rear-drive hot hatch of BMW's 1 Series lineup, sold here as a coupe and a convertible during BMW's short US run of the badge. Front End is the most common damage at 56%. Across the make a recent BMW sold for a median winning bid near $2,500 before fees, most between $1,200 and $6,200 before fees, and an older 135i this age usually sells toward the lower half of that band unless it's an unusually clean example. Most stay in the US, picked up locally or shipped in-country.
Early cars through about 2010 run the N54 twin-turbo inline-six, which BMW recalled once for a high-pressure fuel pump that could fail and stall the engine, and which is also known for fuel injector wear and a wastegate rattle at idle. The 2011-and-later refresh switched to the single twin-scroll N55, a simpler and generally sturdier engine, though its factory plastic charge pipe is known to crack under boost and swapping it for a metal one is a common early fix. On manual cars, check the clutch and dual-mass flywheel if the odometer is climbing, and on any 135i confirm the recall history on the VIN before assuming the fuel system is sound.
Buying is quick: register free – no dealer license – set a maximum bid and the system bids for you up to that cap, or take a lot at its Buy Now price. Win it, pay the invoice plus fees, then pick up, ship or export.
Note: ACV and damage data come from the original auction listing. Always check the condition and title yourself before you bid.
FAQ
What condition are these 135is in?
About 9 lots, 67% on a salvage title and the rest clean or rebuilt. Front End leads at 56%, split across the coupe and convertible bodies.
Is a salvage 135i worth buying?
Often yes if the fuel system checks out. BMW-wide, a recent car sold for a median winning bid near $2,500 before fees, most between $1,200 and $6,200 before fees, and an older 135i usually falls toward the lower half of that band.
What should I check before bidding?
On an N54-powered car, confirm the high-pressure fuel pump recall was done and listen for injector or wastegate noise. On an N55 car, check the plastic charge pipe for cracks. On any manual, feel for clutch slip.
Can I insure and register a salvage 135i?
Not while it's salvage-titled. You register and insure it only after it's rebuilt and passes a state inspection; once re-titled rebuilt, most insurers will write it, just not the company that totaled it. Check with your insurer before you bid.
How does the auction work?
Register free, no dealer license needed. Set a maximum bid and the system bids for you up to that cap, or take a lot at its Buy Now price. Win it, pay the invoice plus fees, then pick up, ship or export.
How do I check a 135i's history before bidding?
Every lot lists the VIN, damage type and title brand. Run the VIN through a vehicle-history report for prior accidents, open recalls and title events before you commit.
What are good alternatives to the 135i?
Cross-shop the Audi TT or the Nissan 370Z for a similar rear-drive coupe feel, or stay within BMW's own coupe range with the larger 435i for more room and a six-cylinder engine.