35 BMW Z4 lots for sale across 33+ Copart locations – model years 2003–2026, avg. mileage 81,000 mi. 26% clean title, 71% salvage; Front End is the top damage (51%). Bids start at $250, and price here depends far more on generation, drivetrain and top mechanism than on a simple average.
The Z4 has run through three distinct generations since it launched – the early roadster and coupe, a version with a folding hardtop, and the current car built alongside the Toyota Supra – so two lots in BMW's auction pool can look nothing alike under the skin. Front End is the most common damage at 51%. There's too little sold volume here to lean on a make-wide median, and it wouldn't tell you much anyway: a clean, low-mile newer car and a project-grade early roadster aren't competing for the same buyer. Most of these stay in the US, picked up locally or shipped in-country.
The earliest cars ran BMW's naturally aspirated inline-sixes, the M54 and later the N52, and the N52's plastic electric water pump and valve cover gasket both wear out with age. The middle generation's signature feature, its retractable metal hardtop, adds its own risk – the motors and linkages that fold it away are complex, and a top that's stuck open or won't latch is an expensive repair before you even look at the car underneath. The newest generation shares its turbocharged B58 inline-six and eight-speed automatic with the Supra, along with that engine's known coolant expansion tank and water pump wear. Watch for the rare, higher-output Z4 M variants of the early cars too – their S54 and S65 engines carry a real premium, so confirm exactly which engine is under the hood before you bid.
Buying is quick: register free – no dealer license – set a maximum bid and the system bids for you up to that cap, or take a lot at its Buy Now price. Win it, pay the invoice plus fees, then pick up, ship or export.
Note: ACV and damage data come from the original auction listing. Always check the condition and title yourself before you bid.
FAQ
What condition are these Z4s in?
About 35 lots, 71% on a salvage title and the rest clean or rebuilt. Front End leads at 51%, and the pool spans everything from the original roadster generation to the newest cars.
Is a salvage Z4 worth buying?
It depends heavily on which generation and drivetrain you're looking at. There's no reliable make-wide price to lean on for a low-volume roadster like this – a clean, low-mile recent car and a rough early project car live in completely different price brackets, so judge each lot on its own condition and engine.
What should I check before bidding?
On an early inline-six car, check the water pump and valve cover for the usual plastic-part wear. On a hardtop-convertible car, confirm the folding top actually opens and closes before you rely on the photos. On the newest turbo-six car, treat it like any other B58 BMW and check the coolant expansion tank.
Can I insure and register a salvage Z4?
Not while it's salvage-titled. You register and insure it only after it's rebuilt and passes a state inspection; once re-titled rebuilt, most insurers will write it, just not the company that totaled it. Check with your insurer before you bid.
How does the auction work?
Register free, no dealer license needed. Set a maximum bid and the system bids for you up to that cap, or take a lot at its Buy Now price. Win it, pay the invoice plus fees, then pick up, ship or export.
How do I check a Z4's history before bidding?
Every lot lists the VIN, damage type and title brand. Run the VIN through a vehicle-history report, and confirm the exact engine and trim against the data plate on the rarer M variants.
What are good alternatives to the Z4?
Cross-shop the Mercedes-Benz SLK-Class or the Nissan 370Z, or look at the closely related Toyota Supra built on the same platform as the newest Z4.