1 Ford motorhome and stripped-chassis lots for sale across 1+ Copart locations – model years 2000, avg. mileage 74,000 mi. 0% clean title, 100% salvage; Front End is the top damage (100%). Bids start at $60, and a straight-frame chassis with a healthy drivetrain still pulls real money when one shows up.
This is Ford's purpose-built motorhome and commercial chassis – the F-53 that sits under most gas Class A coaches and the F-59 stripped chassis that carries step-vans and box bodies. It's a thin corner of Ford's auction pool, so the live count stays small and the good ones don't sit long. Only about a dozen of these have sold here in the last two years, far too few to quote a reliable median – and prices swing wildly, from a few hundred dollars for a stripped hulk to well into five figures for a low-mile roller. Treat every lot as its own case. What you're really buying is the running chassis and drivetrain; most stay in the US, picked up locally or shipped in-country for a rebuild or an upfit.
Sort out the engine first, because there are only two that matter. Older chassis run the 6.8 Triton V10 – strong and cheap to feed on parts, but the early two-valve V10s are famous for blowing spark plugs out of the aluminum heads, so check for prior thread repairs and listen at idle. Newer ones carry the 7.3 "Godzilla" gas V8, the one to chase – simple, torquey and built for the weight. Both are gas; a diesel pusher isn't on this chassis. Then the frame and running gear: these haul 16,000 to 26,000 lb loaded, so the rails, front ball joints, big brakes and steering box all wear hard, and an overloaded rig can sag or crack a rail – a bent one on a chassis this size is a real job. The big question is whether the coach or box is still on it. A stripped cab-and-chassis is a clean starting point for an upfit; one with a wrecked or water-logged coach means you're paying to haul off delamination and rot before you start. If the motor's gone, these still move as non-repairable lots – the chassis, TorqShift transmission and axles feed plenty of RV rebuilds as parts.
Buying is quick: register free – no dealer license – set a maximum bid and the system bids for you up to that cap, or take a lot at its Buy Now price. Win it, pay the invoice plus fees, then pick up, ship or export.
Note: ACV and damage data come from the original auction listing. Always check the condition and title yourself before you bid.
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