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Repairable, Salvage and Damaged Ford F-1 for Sale

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1 Ford F-1 lots for sale across 1+ Copart locations – model years 1948, avg. mileage 48,000 mi. 0% clean title, 100% salvage; Ao is the top damage (100%). Bids start at $60, and clean first-gen F-1s are short-supply collector trucks that hold strong money when a solid one surfaces.

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1948 FORD F1 - Other View
1948 FORD F1 - Other View
1948 FORD F1 - Other View
1948 FORD F1 - Other View
1948 FORD F1 - Other View
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Odometer:
47913 miles
Title code:
Damage:
AO
Location:
KY - LOUISVILLE
Sale Date:
Future Sale
Sale Status:
Unknown
Sale Type:
Auction
Transmission:
Manual
Engine displacement:
UNKNOWN
Drive:
Unknown
Cylinder:
Unknown
Fuel:
Unknown
Color:
Black
Last updated:
10/28/2026
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The F-1 is the original F-Series pickup – Ford's Bonus-Built half-ton from 1948 to 1952, the truck the F-100 later replaced. It rarely turns up in Ford's auction pool, and when one does it's a project, a barn find or a parts truck rather than a late-model wreck. Almost none sell here in a given year, so there's no meaningful median to quote – price each one on its own, because a rust-free cab with a running flathead and a rough roller that's mostly patch panels are worlds apart. What holds up is demand: the restoration, hot-rod and resto-mod crowd keeps clean examples pricey, and even tired ones move as donor bodies. These stay in the US, picked up locally or trailered home for a build.

Rust decides an F-1 before damage does. Check the cab corners, floor pans, lower doors and the bed – a solid original bed and tailgate are worth real money on their own, while a rotted floor is hours of metalwork. Under the hood you'll find either the 226 flathead six or the 239 flathead V8; both are simple and rebuildable, but the parts and the shops that still know them are getting scarce, which is exactly why so many buyers drop a modern crate V8, a manual or auto, and a later frame or Mustang II clip under it – a resto-mod swap is arguably more common now than a period-correct restoration. Decide which build you're doing before you bid, because it changes what matters. A numbers-matching restoration lives or dies on original trim – the grille bars, gauges and stainless are hard to find and pricey. A resto-mod cares far more about a straight cab and a solid frame than what came bolted to it. Either way, get under it: the frame rails and crossmembers sag and rot on trucks this age. And if it's just a shell, it still sells as a donor – a good cab, a clean bed or a straight grille can be worth the buy alone.

Buying is quick: register free – no dealer license – set a maximum bid and the system bids for you up to that cap, or take a lot at its Buy Now price. Win it, pay the invoice plus fees, then pick up, ship or export.

Note: ACV and damage data come from the original auction listing. Always check the condition and title yourself before you bid.

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