Repairable, Salvage and Damaged Mercedes-benz 300 for Sale
Showing results 1 - 14 of 14
14 Mercedes-Benz 300 lots for sale across 14+ Copart locations — model years 1972–1991, odometers often unverified on cars this old. 64% clean title, 29% salvage; Rear End and age lead the board (29%). Bids start at $2,250, and prices ride on body, engine and originality — a rust-free diesel sedan clears a tired one by a wide margin.
The "300" badge covers several Mercedes generations — the boxy W123 sedans and wagons, the W124 that followed, and the flagship W126 300SD and 300SE — so this listing spans sedans and coupes, plus the occasional wagon or roadster. Too few trade here in any stretch to build a sold-price average, and honestly a number wouldn't mean much across cars this different in age and spec. What decides value is the body, the drivetrain, and how original it is, not a formula. Most stay in the US with restorers and diesel enthusiasts, picked up on a trailer or shipped in-country.
The diesel engines are the reason a lot of these cars are still running. The OM617 five-cylinder, naturally aspirated or turbocharged, has a reputation for outliving the rest of the car by a wide margin, and the OM603 six-cylinder that followed it in the later 300D and 300SD carries much of that same durability. Confirm the specific engine and check for a service history, since a diesel with skipped injector or glow-plug maintenance is a different animal from one its owner kept up. Rust is the other half of the equation — wheel arches, floor pans, the battery tray and the area under the rear window are where these bodies go first after decades outdoors. Cars from the final 1992 and 1993 W124 production years carry a documented issue with the era's biodegradable wiring insulation, which turns brittle with age, so check grounds and gauges on a late 300E before you commit. A rough shell with a strong diesel underneath still makes a solid parts donor.
Buying is quick: register free — no dealer license — set a maximum bid and the system bids up to that cap, or take a lot at its Buy Now price. Win it, pay the invoice plus fees, then pick up, ship or export.
Note: ACV and damage data come from the original auction listing. Always check the condition and title yourself before you bid.
FAQ
What condition are these 300s in?
About 14 lots, most on a clean or project title with the rest salvage. These span multiple 1970s–90s generations, so rust and drivetrain condition matter more than the damage category — read the body and the engine, not the odometer.
Is a salvage or project 300 worth buying?
It can be, especially on a diesel with clean maintenance records and solid floors, since the OM617 and OM603 engines are known to outlast the rest of the car. There's no reliable sold-price average given how few and how varied these listings are; a straight W124 sedan is a different buy from a rusty W123 wagon. Cross-shop a clean-title 300 before committing to a rebuild.
What should I check before bidding?
Confirm which engine and generation you're looking at first, since the OM617 and OM603 diesels hold up far better than a neglected gasoline six. Then check the usual rust spots — wheel arches, floor pans and the battery tray. On late-production W124 cars, watch for brittle wiring insulation and unexplained electrical faults.
Can I insure and register a salvage 300?
Not while it's salvage. You register and insure it only after it's rebuilt and passes a state inspection; classics often move onto collector or antique plates once titled, and specialty insurers write agreed-value policies. Check with your insurer before you bid.
How does the auction work?
Register free, no dealer license. Set a maximum bid and the system bids for you up to that cap, or take a lot at its Buy Now price. Win it, pay the invoice plus fees, then pick up, ship or export.
How do I check a 300's history before bidding?
Every lot lists the VIN, damage type and title brand. Run the VIN and data plate for the original engine and trim codes, and check for prior title events before you commit.
What are good alternatives to the 300?
Look at the BMW 528i from the same era for a direct rival, or the Cadillac DeVille if you'd rather have a full-size American alternative.