10 Mercedes-Benz 380 lots for sale across 9+ Copart locations — model years 1981–1985, odometers often unverified on cars this old. 90% clean title, 10% salvage; Mechanical and age lead the board (20%). Bids start at $250, and prices ride on body, engine and originality — a straight, rust-free 380SL or 380SE clears a tired one by a wide margin.
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The 380 badge spans the early-1980s R107 380SL roadster and the W126 380SE and 380SEL sedans, all built right at the start of Mercedes' 1980s V8 era. Sales are thin enough here that a sold-price average wouldn't be meaningful, so weigh each lot on its own body and mechanical condition instead. A straight, complete roadster or sedan draws real collector interest, while a rough or incomplete example is worth mainly its drivetrain and chrome. Most stay in the US with restorers and collectors, picked up on a trailer or shipped in-country.
Both body styles share the 3.8-liter V8 introduced for the 1981 model year, and early production of this engine carries a well-known issue: the original nylon timing chain guide rails wear out faster than the metal ones Mercedes phased in later, so a rattle on cold start is a strong sign the guides need attention before you bid much on the car. Rust follows the usual pattern for a car this age — wheel arches, floor pans and rocker panels first — and on the 380SL specifically, clogged sunroof and convertible-top drains are a common source of hidden water damage in the footwells. Because production ended before the early-1990s wiring changes, electrical faults here trace more often to a bad ground or a tired connector than a harness-wide insulation issue. Trim, soft-top hardware and chrome are pricey to replace, so a complete car is worth chasing over a stripped one. A rough shell with a sound V8 still makes a solid parts donor.
Buying is quick: register free — no dealer license — set a maximum bid and the system bids up to that cap, or take a lot at its Buy Now price. Win it, pay the invoice plus fees, then pick up, ship or export.
Note: ACV and damage data come from the original auction listing. Always check the condition and title yourself before you bid.
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