3 Nissan GT-R lots for sale across 3+ Copart locations — model years 2009–2016, avg. mileage 63,000 mi. 33% clean title, 67% salvage; Front End is the top damage (67%). Bids start at $250, and prices ride on drivetrain health and trim — a straight, unmolested GT-R clears a tuned or track-abused one by a wide margin.
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The R35 GT-R has run since 2009 as the flagship of Nissan's lineup, and it trades at auction the way a supercar does — a car or two at a time, not a steady stream. Too few sell here in any stretch to set a meaningful price, so this is a pool for buyers who already know exactly what they're chasing. Rear and side damage from track excursions turn up alongside ordinary collision hits, and theft recoveries aren't unusual on a car this desirable. Nearly all stay in the US with specialist shops and enthusiasts, rather than moving overseas.
Everything about a GT-R runs through its drivetrain, so that's where the real risk sits. The 3.8 VR38DETT twin-turbo V6 pairs with a dual-clutch transaxle and the ATTESA E-TS all-wheel-drive system, and a hard launch on a cold, unwarmed gearbox is the classic way early cars damaged the clutch packs — ask for launch-control and track history before anything else. The rear-mounted transmission also carries its own cooler and fluid service schedule, so a lapsed maintenance record is a red flag, not a footnote. Because the AWD hardware runs front to rear, a front or rear hit on a crashed GT-R can reach into the transfer case and differentials in ways a photo won't show, so budget for a shop that knows the platform. The body mixes aluminum, carbon fiber and steel, which keeps weight down but makes collision parts slow and expensive to source — a bent nose or a cracked carbon splitter costs more here than on an ordinary coupe. Heavy ECU tuning and aftermarket turbos are common on this platform, so a modified car isn't a defect, but it does mean pricing the repair as a tuner build, not a stock one. Nismo trims carry unique aero and carbon parts worth confirming are on the car. When the damage runs deep enough that the shell isn't worth saving, the drivetrain alone still carries real value to the right buyer.
Buying is quick: register free — no dealer license — set a maximum bid and the system bids up to that cap, or take a car at its Buy Now price. Win it, pay the invoice plus fees, then pick up, ship or export.
Note: ACV and damage data come from the original auction listing. Always check the condition and title yourself before you bid.
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